Driftless Terroir: ‘From Russia, With Fizz’ — Not-Colas Made at Home

I tasted my first sips of kvass (kv-AHSS) in Moscow about two years ago during a cross-country ski odyssey. Moscow was our team’s tourist destination before we traveled to the Demino Sports Complex several hours north of the capital city. Out of curiosity, I had peeked into the refrigerator of our Air B&B apartment. There I discovered an opened plastic bottle of Nikola KBAC, which is how the word kvass appears in Cyrillic script. I decided to sample it before committing to buying a bottle. It tasted slightly like Dr. Pepper, but also like soy sauce, molasses, Vegemite and beer. Syrupy, sweet, malty, carbonated. I picked up another bottle at the neighborhood supermarket the following day.
I later read that the brand name “Nikola” has the fun coincidence of sounding like “not cola.” In fact, digging a little deeper, I learned that post-glasnost advertising for kvass attempted to counter the pace that Coca-Cola and Pepsi flowed into Russia and the former Soviet republics. Kvass commercials emphasized that the beverage is natural, but even more to the point, drinking it was said to be patriotic, an act of resistance against Western cultural imperialism. There are clips of clever TV commercials bearing this message; you can find them on YouTube. You know, if you need a distraction, like watching a pale Michael Jackson impersonator moonwalk into a traditional Russian banya (sauna) and spill his cola drink on the hot rocks …
So kvass in a name? According to Wikipedia, kvass is derived from a proto-Slavic word for “leavening,” which makes sense given that the oldest references to this beverage describe it as a bread-based, low or no-alcohol drink, originating in a geographic region that now includes the Russian Federation, Poland, Belarus and Ukraine. Your beer historian friends will have more specific data on the history of grain-based beverages, but kvass and its cousins, such as Lithuanian gira, spread across Eastern and Central Europe after the 10th century. Russian literature is full of references to everyday people consuming kvass. In many cases, fermented beverages proved safer to drink than water.
Even more delectable than bread kvass is beet kvass, a tonic made from lacto-fermented raw beets. Sometimes called beetroot tonic or beet kombucha, beet kvass is a magenta-colored, salty, earthy, sour nectar. Around this time of year, fresh vegetables are scarce, and we crave brightly colored foods. If you have a few beets tucked away in your crisper or root cellar, consider making this.
Fermentation enthusiast Sandor Katz, whom I missed bumping into at the Wormfarm Institute’s Fermentation Fest in Reedsburg in October, surmises that Tolstoy’s Anna Karenina might have drunk kvass, but, even more likely, the peasants in the fields outside her estate were refreshing themselves with black bread bubbly. Apparently kvass is so ubiquitous in the summertime, as one woman recalled in an NPR interview about her childhood in the former U.S.S.R., children ran for the “kvass truck” like American kids scream for the ice cream truck (or brake for the lemonade stand.)
In the spirit of promoting local flavors, I’d like to present this humble beverage to you as a healthy alternative to commercial soda, a veritable third-party option. If you have ever tried kombucha or other probiotic beverages, you know that these naturally carbonated, rejuvenating drinks are flavorful, refreshing and a tad expensive if you aren’t making them yourself.
Homemade bread kvass, which I make from scraps of my sourdough rye (see “Driftless Terroir,” March 2016), tastes more like beer than like soda, depending on variations in the five basic ingredients. The main recipe includes toasted, stale bread (preferably rye), water, sugar, raisins and yeast or sourdough starter (I use the latter). Lemon juice adds a bit of a shandy flavor to the brew.
I use Katz’s recipe, which can be found in his book “Wild Fermentation.” Some quick tips I have learned through trial and error: Toast the bread well for richer flavor and a darker color result; strain the brew through a kitchen strainer lined with cheesecloth; and when you bottle up your brewed kvass, do not screw the tops on too tight, or you will lose half of the contents upon decanting. The carbonation level is similar to champagne. My last batch had a similar taste and color to a lager beer. Alcohol content is estimated at less than 1%; not zero, but not enough to cause impairment, unless you drink a gallon.
What could be better than bread champagne? Even more delectable than bread kvass is beet kvass, a tonic made from lacto-fermented raw beets. Sometimes called beetroot tonic or beet kombucha, beet kvass is a magenta-colored, salty, earthy, sour nectar. Around this time of year, fresh vegetables are scarce, and we crave brightly colored foods. If you have a few beets tucked away in your crisper or root cellar, consider making this. (See recipe below.)
Beets, beets, beets. If you eat them regularly, you either love them, or tolerate them because you know they are good for you. Whether you are motivated by your five senses or by common sense, your liver and your cells thank you every time you choose to consume beta vulgaris. The health benefits of raw beets include antioxidants, anti-inflammatory compounds, B vitamins, iron and other minerals, and fiber. Add to that the helpful enzymes and microorganisms that thrive in raw, fermented foods.
I know a cross-country skier who swears that dill pickle juice revives him when he needs an electrolyte fix for muscle cramping. Why not try beet kvass? Other skier friends ate beet concentrate as an energy booster during a 90-kilometer ultra-marathon in Sweden. Next month, I will attempt to make beet kvass the official energy drink of Team Tippy Top, our motley crew of American Birkebeiner skiers.
Meanwhile, happy fermenting, and don’t forget to thank your local farmers for growing your wheat, rye and beets. May I propose a toast: to your health, to grandmother wisdom, and to the kindness of everyday people, all over the world.
Bazile Booth is a native of Boulder, Colorado. The Driftless Region drew her to a hilltop orchard in Iowa County where she lends a hand picking apples and pears. Bazile’s garden and kitchen inspire her to concoct nourishing food and drinks. These meals help fuel her Nordic skiing habit and her day job as a clinical social worker.
4 medium-sized raw red beets, peeled and cut into quarters. (You don’t actually want small pieces, as fermentation
will occur too quickly, resulting in fewer desirable
microorganisms in the end.)
Filtered or spring water
1 tsp. non-iodized salt
3 tbsp. raw sauerkraut juice, whey,
or packaged starter culture (available online)
Fresh ginger root (optional), peeled
and sliced into dime-sized pieces
Place beet pieces and ginger chunks into clean glass jar (widemouth works best). Dissolve salt and starter into a small amount of water. Pour this mixture over the beets, and top off with more water, completely covering the beets.
Protect the top of the jar with a piece of breathable fabric held in place with a rubber band, or any other contraption you prefer (if you have a fermenting lid — by all means, use it). After 5-7 days, pour off liquid and store in refrigerator. You can repeat this process 1-2 more times with the same beets, using a little of the kvass as the starter for the next batch.
—Adapted from Jennifer McGruther’s nourishedkitchen.com.
The 2023 Winter Lyceum hosted by The Mining & Rollo Jamison Museums features seven electrifying lectures on topics exploring the realm of “energy” in the context of our place. The talks will be held online via Zoom, running each Sunday from February 19 to April 2 at 5 p.m. Each roughly 45-minute talk will be followed…
The Mining & Rollo Jamison Museums presents a panel of regional energy experts from Badger Hollow Solar, RENEW Wisconsin, and the electricity transmission industry sharing updates on major renewable energy projects in the region, talk about why these projects are happening here, and discuss what impacts they have on our economy, environment, and communities. To…
Save the date to meet and hear from award-winning Wisconsin authors during this year's free Winter Writers Reading Series (donations welcome!). Jennifer Morales was awarded the Council for Wisconsin Writers Zona Gale Short Fiction Award for “The Doorman,” published in the anthology "Fire & Water: Stories from the Anthropocene," by Black Lawrence Press. Morales is…
Rountree Gallery's annual spring exhibit features submissions from regional artists residing within 100 miles of Platteville. This is a great opportunity to show your support for local artists and the gallery. Gallery hours are 4-7 p.m. Thursday-Friday and 10 a.m.-2 p.m. Saturday.
Artist Mary Bergs of Benton, WI, investigates the place where language and objects coincide in this site-specific installation in the Upstairs Gallery at Rountree Gallery. Gallery hours are 4-7 p.m. Thursday-Friday and 10 a.m.-2 p.m. Saturday.
Celebrate the opening of Rountree Gallery's annual spring exhibit featuring submissions from regional artists residing within 100 miles of Platteville. This is a great opportunity to show your support for local artists and the gallery.
Meet artist Mary Bergs of Benton, WI, whose new exhibit investigates the place where language and objects coincide in a site-specific installation in the Upstairs Gallery at Rountree Gallery.
Taliesin Preservation is hiring for our 2023 season! Stop by our Job Fair at the Frank Lloyd Wright Visitor Center in Spring Green or apply online anytime. Be part of a fun group of hard-working individuals. We're not your typical seasonal job!
Soul Purpose performs at the Spring Green General Store in March! Join us for some fun, lively and soothing acoustic music that will make you smile on a late winter's day. Soul Purpose features four singer/musicians and will be performing familiar arrangements of popular music, standards, oldies and much more.No cover; donations appreciated! See Soul…
The 2023 Winter Lyceum hosted by The Mining & Rollo Jamison Museums features seven electrifying lectures on topics exploring the realm of “energy” in the context of our place. The talks will be held online via Zoom, running each Sunday from February 19 to April 2 at 5 p.m. Each roughly 45-minute talk will be followed…
Locally mined zinc in outer space? Engineer Camie Platner will share how, since the beginning of the Space Age, EaglePicher silver zinc batteries have been trusted to power historical NASA launches, including Mercury, Gemini, Apollo and Skylab. Today, with more than 50 years of silver zinc battery production heritage, and more than 200 battery designs,…
The integration of art, nature and mental well-being. If your intention word for 2023 is Connection, Creativity, or Self-Awareness, attending Natural Wisdom Counseling’s winter 4 Elements workshop series is where you begin! With an emphasis on relational, nature-based and expressive art practices, attendees may participate in experiences that foster mental health and well-being. This series…
Engineer Mark Nussbaum, who specializes in historic properties and the integration of energy efficient technologies, will review the basic concepts of ground source heat pump systems, how they work to provide climate control for buildings, and what specific features often make them an excellent choice in historic buildings. We will look at some of the…
The 2023 Winter Lyceum hosted by The Mining & Rollo Jamison Museums features seven electrifying lectures on topics exploring the realm of “energy” in the context of our place. The talks will be held online via Zoom, running each Sunday from February 19 to April 2 at 5 p.m. Each roughly 45-minute talk will be followed…
Save the date to meet and hear from award-winning Wisconsin authors during this year's free Winter Writers Reading Series (donations welcome!). Craig Reinbold won the Council for Wisconsin Writers Kay W. Levin Short Nonfiction Award for the essay “What We Might Salvage,” which appeared in issue 93 of the literary journal AGNI. Craig’s writing has…
Experience Norwegian culture through the music and dances of Telemark, Norway! Folklore Village's annual Spring Scandinavian Weekend will feature special guests sharing the music and dances of Telemark. The weekend includes intensive and engaging workshops in fiddle and dance, energetic evening dances, and delicious cultural meals by RedBarn Catering. Full-time adult registration is $280 if…
Every month on the third Saturday, either through Zoom or outside the library building, begin or deepen your mindfulness practice. Mindfulness is paying attention to one's thoughts, body sensations, emotions and surroundings without judgment. Mindfulness can be used for many reasons, from better physical health to better mental health to improved relationships with one's self…
A multi-musical performance of original and cover music. STS is a Milwaukee native, a musician of the late '70’s and '80’s scene. He has played with Royal Flush, Generic Beans, Hot Liquid Medicine — all original groups — and now, Psycherelic. Vicki is a Chicago native whose musical experiences began as a classical violinist. Her…
The 2023 Winter Lyceum hosted by The Mining & Rollo Jamison Museums features seven electrifying lectures on topics exploring the realm of “energy” in the context of our place. The talks will be held online via Zoom, running each Sunday from February 19 to April 2 at 5 p.m. Each roughly 45-minute talk will be followed…
Renowned farmer, author, and biological farming consultant Gary Zimmer presents the farmer's role in energy conservation and carbon building. With incentives and guidance, farmers have a role in reducing energy use and impacting climate change by planting cover crops, organic farming, reducing fertilizer use, making methane with on-farm digesters, making compost, and producing bio char.…
Save the date to meet and hear from award-winning Wisconsin authors during this year's free Winter Writers Reading Series (donations welcome!). Nick Gulig, winner of the Wisconsin People & Ideas Poetry Award for “Of Genesis,” is a Thai-American poet from Wisconsin, who was educated in Montana, Iowa and Colorado. In 2011, he earned a Fulbright…
The integration of art, nature and mental well-being. If your intention word for 2023 is Connection, Creativity, or Self-Awareness, attending Natural Wisdom Counseling’s winter 4 Elements workshop series is where you begin! With an emphasis on relational, nature-based and expressive art practices, attendees may participate in experiences that foster mental health and well-being. This series…
Lil Rev is a world-class entertainer and steward of vintage song and lore. Performing with ukulele, harmonica, mandolin, guitar and banjo, Rev has an unmatched repertoire of both traditional and original song, poetry, storytelling and humor. Audiences will sing-along, clap, laugh and maybe even shed a tear at a Lil’ Rev performance.
Join artist and curator Mary Bergs, of Benton, WI, for a Process Art discussion at the Rountree Gallery during her site-specific installation investigating the place where language and objects coincide. Conversation takes place in the upstairs gallery.
Knowledge of using geometry and pattern as a language of composition has been developing for decades at Taliesin, the rural Driftless Area-based design studio of architect Frank Lloyd Wright, coming together for practice and creation in a long-standing design workshop known as “nature patterns.” When designer Aris Georges trained in nature patterns as a student…
The 2023 Winter Lyceum hosted by The Mining & Rollo Jamison Museums features seven electrifying lectures on topics exploring the realm of “energy” in the context of our place. The talks will be held online via Zoom, running each Sunday from February 19 to April 2 at 5 p.m. Each roughly 45-minute talk will be followed…
In this virtual weeklong summer camp, we will explore how Frank Lloyd Wright approached the design process in creating his own Taliesin estate. In live two-hour morning sessions, we will look deeply into the architectural details of Wright’s home and studio, using Taliesin as a text for organic principles of design. Students will incorporate what…
In this virtual weeklong summer camp, we will explore how Frank Lloyd Wright approached the design process in creating his own Taliesin estate. In live two-hour morning sessions, we will look deeply into the architectural details of Wright’s home and studio, using Taliesin as a text for organic principles of design. Students will incorporate what…
In this virtual weeklong summer camp, we will explore how Frank Lloyd Wright approached the design process in creating his own Taliesin estate. In live two-hour morning sessions, we will look deeply into the architectural details of Wright’s home and studio, using Taliesin as a text for organic principles of design. Students will incorporate what…
In this virtual weeklong summer camp, we will explore how Frank Lloyd Wright approached the design process in creating his own Taliesin estate. In live two-hour morning sessions, we will look deeply into the architectural details of Wright’s home and studio, using Taliesin as a text for organic principles of design. Students will incorporate what…
Welcome to a weekend of Cajun and Creole music and dance with the very finest tradition-bearers, including Creole fiddler Edwards Poullard and Cajun accordionist Jesse Lége. We offer multiple levels of instruction in fiddle, accordion, guitar, and dance, plus cultural discussions, jam sessions, parties, traditional food prepared by RedBarn Catering, and more! Our 2023 Cajun…
In this virtual weeklong summer camp, we will explore how Frank Lloyd Wright approached the design process in creating his own Taliesin estate. In live two-hour morning sessions, we will look deeply into the architectural details of Wright’s home and studio, using Taliesin as a text for organic principles of design. Students will incorporate what…
Classic Dylan, blues and originals.